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When compiling a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect renowned high-end establishments. However, nestled near the top among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

This compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. This accolade has made the owners totally astonished.

“I am totally shocked,” remarks the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that led to their humble restaurant earning such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its original character. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the cuisine, and this eatery certainly delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into many times that figure.

A Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not work at fancy restaurants. “I feel very happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning outside its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this gastronomic achievement.